Busy Busy Busy

We are all running around today like crazy. The day is off to a great start. We are incredibly excited to offer our customers this unique opportunity to have 4 years to pay for an order with 0% interest!

Leap year is something cool and we’re making the most of it.

In other news I saw some really awesome new products that I want to talk about, but I can’t yet until we get a couple more details worked out – but our resolution remains the same:


I will put my name on that anyday.

Movement in a Floating Engineered Floor

Q: I recently purchased the engineered wood red oak flooring from Pergo (5 inches and 3/8 thick). It is to be floated. I hired an installer and noticed that several planks give a little when I walk over them. Is this normal with floating floors. Or should I try other options like nailing them down to the floor? Will it hurt that part of the floor is floated by part of it is nailed. Any ideas would help.

A: All floating floors will move some as they are not solidly anchored to the floor. Usually this movement is very subtle and difficult to feel unless you are specifically looking for it. Now if you are feeling a decent amount of movement, such as being able to see a gap as the floor flexes underfoot, then this can be a problem.
All floating floors have a tolerance for movement and certain underlayments allow a floor to move more than others. Dense underlayments like Cork allow for a bit less movement than the cheaper foam based underlayments.
With the Pergo floor you have installed, this floor should have been glued in the tongue and groove sections when floated, so if you are hearing any pop noises or are able to see into the joints when the floor moves, this can be a problem.
What is most likely happening is that part of your subfloor has a small valley that sits lower than the rest of the subfloor and the floor is flexing down into that valley as you walk over it. Typically this is taken care of with a bit of subfloor prep before installing the floor and although floating floors can account for a small variance in subfloor height it is still best to level out the floor before going forward with installation.
I would not suggest nailing portions of the floor, as this will prevent the floor from being able to move which floating floors are designed to do. This means that the portions of floor which can move could buckle or warp as they move and other portions do not. At the very least, your can run into problems with gapping as the floor expands and contracts.
In the end, I would have your installer return and check the areas in question. If the movement is within the tolerance limits of the floor, then there is no need to repair. If this movement is beyond tolerance, the precise cause should be found and remedied, which is most likely going to require a small amount of work leveling a portion of the subfloor.

Floating Installation Question

Q: I purchased over six hundred sq ft of
3″ American Maple Natural
Westhollow® Wood
3/8″ Engineered / 6mm cork underlayment From iFloor.com
I plan on installing in a bedroom with heavy furniture. Should I plan in advance where the furniture will be placed and install a solid underlayment instead of the cork under furniture ? or is the weight not a concern with the 6mm cork underlayment. If you can please answer asap as I would like to start my installation.
Thanks Very Much

A: As far as underlayments are concerned, cork is one of the best when it comes to density. This being said, a floating floor which is carefully installed over cork underlayment will be able to handle more weight than foam underlayments. Depending on how heavy the furniture for your bed room is will depend upon how much planning you will want to do.
I would avoid placing exceptionally heavy furniture toward the edges of the floor, especially if there is no other furniture across from it to balance some of the stress on the floor. This being said, take some time to plan where you will place your furniture, but this underlayment should do fine for a bit more weight than most floating floors. A big thing to keep in mind here is that the flooring is only 3″ wide which means it is slightly less stable than wider planked floors.
When doing your install, make sure you put a proper amount of tongue and groove glue into the grooves of the flooring. Then give plenty of time for the adhesive to cure and the floor to settle. I would say at least 24 hours though you would be better to give it 48-72 hours before moving any furniture back into the room. This will help ensure the floor’s adhesive has cured and it is stable to accept the weight without as much worry. If you have something extremely heavy, like a water bed, I would suggest nailing or gluing this floor in place rather than floating it.

500 Trucks of Illegal Timber – Nabbed in Brazil!

500 trucks of illegal logs seized after Brazil police retake town

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By Alan Clendenning
in Sao Paulo
HEAVILY armed Brazilian federal police have retaken control of an Amazon town and seized more than 500 truckloads of illegally cut hardwood that were abandoned last week when rioting residents and loggers drove out environmental authorities.
About 450 officers retook the town of Tailandia on Saturday, patrolling on horseback and in pick-up trucks and standing guard outside sawmills.

At least 2,000 residents burned tyres, blocked roads and forced Environmental Protection Agency workers to flee the area last Tuesday. The force sent in at the weekend allowed the seizure of the wood to resume while preventing any new violence, federal police officer Fernando Alberto Silva said.

“Order was re-established peacefully,” he added.

Click to read the full story

Base Molding and Transition Question

Q: We have just installed 3/4” Capella engineered pecan plank flooring and now we are doing the trim and molding. We have a couple of open doorways where the hardwood floor meets a tile floor about 1/4” lower. How can we transition the base molding and base shoe between the two floors over what amounts to a 6” wall? Angling the base molding across the transition seems like it will make the area look like a poor finish, and there still will be the problem of the base shoe not meeting up.
In the same doorway, what is the best way to transition the floors? Can T molding still be used with a 1/4” drop? That would seem to leave a fair gap on one side. Should we rip and glue a shim piece to the T molding under one edge? If we just rip reducer trim to fit, I will need some way to deal with the edge of the tile and the reducer edge.
Lastly, we used the floating sub floor method to install the flooring over a concrete area, but this has left us with doorway height transitions of 1” down to other types of flooring. Can you offer a way to deal with this situation?
Thank you,

I followed up with Gary to get a few photos to get a better idea of the precise trim and situations he is working with here.
Follow-Up: Thank you for getting back to me. I moved ahead on two of the problems and I think the issues turned out reasonably well. At least my wife seems satisfied. [flooring 71.jpg] shows the final T molding transition from ¾” flooring to the tile which was about 3/16” low on one end and 1/16” on the other. [flooring 069.jpg] shows more detail on the “high” side. I ripped down a long wedge piece of scrap flooring to match the 1/16” to 3/16” gap over a 30” span. A little nerve wracking cutting a long thin piece. I also had to make a one time use angle jig for my table saw to get the shim taper correct. Finally, I sanded down the shim to the ½” width to fit under the T molding. This photo only shows the high end of the T molding transition at the greatest height in the photo. The photo actually brings out all the imnperfections, you don’t really notice the joint as easily from a normal position.
Here is the [flooring 71.jpg] photo Greg refers to above.

Here we have [flooring 069.jpg] where you can see the base shoe and the other side of the t-mold.

The photo above also shows my solution to the base and base shoe trim problem. I realize now I should have given more detail on the base and base shoe. The base is 3” x ½” standard pine primed base, and the base shoe is ¾” by ½” primed base shoe. I used a Dremel drum sander bit to knock off the edges and match the “high side” base to the “lower side” base. I am hoping once I fill the nail holes, fill the shim line and paint, the drop will hardly be noticeable. From a standing position it does not seem to draw the eye to any flaws. Nevertheless, I would very much appreciate your suggestions.
The third problem concerning the >1” difference between floors is stickier and I have not figured out anything at this point. The lack of three dimensions make the photo a bit hard to interpret. The gap between the rooms was intentionally left fairly wide because I felt reasonable sure I was not going to end with a sharp drop off solution. [FR transition 2.jpg] and [Family Rm floor transition 1.jpg] show one case where the floor drops through the doorway to a Pergo floor. [FR transition 2.jpg] is an attempt to show a little better the 3D character of the problem from one side. The arrangement is concrete, vapor barrier (blue), floating sub floor consisting of 2 layers of 3/8” staggered plywood sheets, glued and screwed together, rosin paper, and finally the ¾” flooring. The engineered floor is nailed with 1 ½” T nails and 1 3/16” T nails for face nailing. [FR Bath Transition 1.jpg] is a second case where the hardwood floor drops off to vinyl flooring, but the problem is pretty much the same.

Here you can see the transition for [Family Rm floor transition 1.jpg]. Notice that the doorway’s frame is already undercut in anticipation of an angular transition.

Here is [FR transition 2.jpg] that Gary mentions. You can see a fairly big drop off to the pergo and the corner of a door, which can be a major problem when planning such a change in floor heights.

Here we see [FR Bath Transition 1.jpg] where the Capella floor is dropping down to vinyl. Again notice the frame of the doorway has been cut in preparation, but we will have to deal with a door for the bathroom.

I would greatly appreciate any solutions and advice you can offer on dealing with these transitions problems. I suppose you might be wondering why I would create such a large drop in the first place. I preferred to not have to deal with power nailing into concrete and I was concerned about the mess with gluing the floor directly to the concrete. Pneumatic nailing was the more straightforward approach, even though I did realize that I was going to have to deal with a high to low floor problem.
The flooring was purchased through ifloor and we are pleased with the Capella flooring quality and Ifloor service. The only glitch, which is being resolved right now, is that the wrong reducer trim thickness was send on a second order for additional trim.
Thank you for any help you can offer
A: Thanks for the photos, as they say a picture says 1000 words. Your shim work on the t-mold looks good and I agree that unless someone goes down to floor level to inspect, it should be practically invisible to the eye. I also agree with the approach you have taken for your base mold. When it comes to corners, it can be difficult to get a good look, but with a bit of patience and some paint your base mold should look good.
Let’s dig into your problem with the big drop in floor heights. The problematic areas will be where you have doors. Typically for a dip like this I would suggest using a stair nosing. Think of this similar to the lip of a sunk in living room or raised kitchen areas. To cover the short hop, treat it much like a stair and install the proper nosing (stair or bull nose). This is your best molding solution for this type of drop. Luckily Capella makes flush stair nosings to match their floors.
Now there are two potential problems here. First off, although this is the best molding solution it is not necessarily a smooth transition as you will have the rounded portion of the nosing which will have an appearance similar to the lip of stair. This is less of a problem, but more of a matter of taste. The second issue is in areas with doors. Depending on how the nosing would sit and how the door swings, you may run into an issue of fitting the nosing in. Based on the pictures you have sent, it appears any doors will swing into the rooms that are previously floored, which means they will swing away from the nosing – which is a huge help to the case here. I whipped up a quick sketch to illustrate how the nosing should sit and how it will cover as a transition. You will notice in the sketch that there is a lip to these nosings which will drop down to cover a portion of your plywood substrate. Now assuming the door comes up to the end of the nosing (give a small gap just to be save) you should be able to keep a very good looking transition as the doorway itself will help to break up the appearance.
If this is not an aesthetically pleasing solution, the you will have to look into a custom molding solution, either via building a piece with some careful work on your own behalf or by finding a local molding house that creates custom moldings. In the end, the easy solution here will be using a stair nose. Doors can be an issue, and you will need to decide whether the door comes up flush to the nosing if it swings away from the molding, or to undercut or raise the door in order to account for the difference in height. Luckily from what I can see, it appears your doors should swing away from the nosing, so this project can be completed with a simple nosing install allowing room for the door’s movement.

Kudos Corner

Dear Steve,

We corresponded over three years ago when I first learned of your company.
I have planned on purchasing from you and last week I finally was able to do so.
Over the past three years I have told several people about your company and I have also printed out and shared your laminate floor research.

A little over a week ago my email was answered by Ron Sanders after I had filled out an online credit application. When Ron emailed me I was feeling like a raft floating in the ocean and his email was the life line thrown from an ocean liner.

Making this big of a financial commitment was a little scary. Ron was able to answer my questions and even provided information about Wilsonart I had not discovered in my research.

He was very helpful and knowledgeable.

I was able to save $1.00 per square foot over the exact same product I found locally.
This was over an $800 savings. Then I was able to take advantage of your 26 months same as cash offer. I was ECSTATIC about this. I have already spoken to Pam who I see everyday at the post office. She and her husband are planning on installing laminate floors and I have told her about Ron and your company.

I just wanted you to know that I appreciate you and Ron and I plan on telling many others about ifloors.com.


Mary N
Portland, Oregon

Mary – you have said it all! Thanks for your business and Kudos to Ron for delivering on the promise to serve! We appreciate your kind gift of feedback and look forward to tons of referrals in Portland!

Another Potential Wager

On the heels of that Green Bay packers story below I am surprised by my own action, but I made a challenge to the company last week; a wager if you will.

I said that when they meet or beat plan this month AND deliver our record day of all time this coming Friday the 29th of February I would shave my head.

Happily we have some additional commitments from other iFLOOR Support Center personnel. Theron, Dennis and Tad have agreed to either shave their head or get a orange Mohawk based on some similar criteria. And Bryan in marketing was shamed into shaving his head or getting a Mohawk if we don’t hit a certain level of sales.

Even with shaving my head I may lose my hair after offering for the first time ever a leap year financing offer of 48 months 0% financing for 1 day only. That in itself is crazy, but it shows we’ll do anything to take care of customers! Leap year only comes around once every 4 years and this offer has NEVER been done before at iFLOOR!

There has never been a better time to enhance the beauty of your home with the finest flooring in the world.

At the considerable risk of scaring away customers, please find an artist’s rendering of my sleek new Jean Luc Picard style hair-do as additional incentive to beat the objectives!


**Happily my thinning hair remains in tact after missing the record by a hair’s breath!